HASKAP Planting Guide

Planting Depth

Haskap should be planted 1 inch above collar of plug to compensate for possible heaving or to establish a deeper root system. It is possible to plant overlying long shoots sideways under the ground. This will allow for a wider bush if shoots sprout from under the ground buds along the stem.

Pollination and planting several Varieties

Haskap in Saskatchewan bloom from late April to early May and can take -07c to an open flower with any damages. Haskap is said to need two unrelated varieties in close proximity for good pollination. Almost any Russian clone will pollinate with the new clones from the University of Saskatchewan.

Soils and pH

Haskap are known to adapt to a wide range of pH. At the University of Saskatchewan they are grown on clay soil with pH 7.9 they have been grown along side with blueberries with a pH reading of 5.4. Russian researchers recommend a pH between 5-6 .

Wild Canadian Honeysuckles have been found in boggy areas and near streams typically in high organic matter such as peat. This does not indicate that they prefer the wet areas as testing has show that they do better in well drained soil.


During the first 3 years watering is extremely important to establish the plants . On PEI and Saskatchewan Haskap plots are seldom irrigated because on the clay soil but it is recommended to water a few times thoroughly to promote deep root growth . Watering frequently with small amounts of water can result in shallow root growth. This makes a plant more prone to drought conditions.

Where irrigation is provided, it should be discontinued in the fall to encourage dormancy development.


It is recommended that you get soil test but it is unlikely that the testing company could recommend a specifically for Haskap.

Haskap is actually more closely related to the potato and the tomato crop than any other berry crop so you could use a Tomato recommendation. Fertilizing should take place in the spring as rapid growth later in their growing season may make them prone to more winter damage. In Japan, compost manure is used as their main source of nutrients.

Grass cover and weeding

Grass between the rows serves to reduce mud and compete with trees for moisture at the end of growing season . It is best in dry locations to maintain grass free alleys between rows. Some orchards keep the alley areas free through to July and then let the grass grow in August as this will help reduce the available moisture. Lower moisture levels will help induce dormancy in plants in late summer and fall. Although remember the long grass also provides a place for rodents that can do a lot of damage.

Glyphosate herbicides are not recommended and we are not able to suggest what can be used. It is possible to use a herbicide but beware of drifting mist.


Protection to the west and north winds of any orchard is recommended . Winter damage is often a function of direct exposure to prevailing winds.


We are not aware of any pest that can effect the berries although the plant can be effected by powdery mildew . Deers and rabbits may be a problem as the Saskatchewan growers do have deer fence around their orchards but birds do love them.

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